The global textile and garment manufacturing industry converged at ITMA 2015 in Milan to source innovative solutions to enhance their business sustainability. What are the new approaches to achieve better sustainability? What are the challenges ahead? Some on-site exhibitor interviews shed more lights on “true” sustainable solutions.

The energy sensors are now installed as standard in Trützschler's machines. 

When many suppliers are talking about energy saving, Trützschler is going beyond the marketing hype. The company offers energy measurement devices as standard in its machines.

 

“We can prove it! We do not just tell customers how much less energy the machines consume. We show how much it is on the display of the machine and transfer the data to the data management system.” remarked Dirk Burger, CEO, Trützschler.

 

At ITMA 2015, Trützschler displayed its specific sensors and the data acquisition system T-Data. Important quality data can be acquired, managed and evaluated by the system, including the energy consumption of the machines.

 

The demand for sustainable solutions in China market is especially keen. “In the past, many Chinese customers believed lowest investment was the most important. Today, as labor and energy cost increases in the country, they are looking at the total cost of production. Many customers are looking for solutions of lower energy consumption and high efficiency,” said Dirk Burger.   

Dirk Burger, CEO, Trützschler 

Dirk Burger also specified that the most important issue is that customers have to learn to look into details in different cases. For example, buying a new machine can replace three or four old machines as the production capacity is so much bigger, and the energy consumption may be is only double, so can save 50% energy after all.

 

“Besides, there is a big difference between installed energy consumption and the energy really needed. For some machines, they need more energy to start up, however, when the machines are running, the energy consumption is quite low,” he added.

 

Customers need to be more sophisticated

 

Verena Ruckh, Head of Advertising & Marketing Department at Brückner, and Jürgen Ströhle, CTO at Benninger shared the same point of view. “The challenge to customers is not only to have sustainable machines, but also have to look at the whole process,” Verena Ruckh said.

 

Therefore, Brückner’s experts always give advice to customers on how to optimize their factory to be more sustainable. “We do not only deliver machines, we also advise our customers before and after selling the machine. We always develop the machines with customers. Customization is our philosophy,” she emphasized.   

 

According to Jürgen Ströhle, most of the customers still don’t know the whole picture, they believe water saving is the most important because that is what they heard of indirectly. However, it is possibly that they have to change other things first in the process, for example some preventive measures.

Jürgen Ströhle, CTO at Benninger  

“We need full picture to give advice. However, it is not always easy to get information as the customers are also experts who always believe their judgment. In addition, some information is confidential. This is the key challenge we face,” he explained.

 

Jürgen Ströhle also confirmed the growing demand in China market, he said: “I am really surprised that how eager the Chinese customers are to look for sustainable solutions. Congratulations to China. The 12th Five Year Plan had very tough tasks on sustainability, and it is really good that most of these are fulfilled.”

 

Jochen Stillger from Sales Management of the Thies mentioned that the trend of eco-friendliness is especially strong in dying machines. Most customers concern about saving in water, energy and chemicals.

 

Apart from China, Thies is also focusing on Vietnam because of the potential TPP (Trans-Pacific Partnership) would increase the exports of the country to the US. India and Turkey are also very important markets to the company.

 

Green technology trends

 

For technology trends, Jürgen Ströhle at Benninger mentioned in particular that CPB (Cold Pad Batch) dyeing technology is strongly growing because of the sustainability achieved. Compared to traditional exhaust dyeing methodology, CPB consumes less water, energy and chemical. It also has the capability of continuous production.

 

Santex Rimar Group is also entering the green sector with new technology and new machine. It invested in a complete new technology of a product line of sustainability.

Ferdinando Businaro, Group President, SANTEX RIMAR GROUP  

Solwa is a start-up company in the water treatment sector and dehydration processes, using only renewable technologies that gave the Greentech line great vitality in Southern America and Asia. The brand new eco-friendly solution is DryWa, an innovative green system to dry sewage sludge in wastewater treatment plants, reducing drastically volumes, costs and industrial waste.

 

“This is a special development for sludge but the principal and technological content can be also implemented to other machines. Instead of sludge, it can also applied to textiles and technical textiles,” Ferdinando Businaro, Group President, SANTEX RIMAR GROUP said.

 

“For innovation, when we are very good at some technology, it will be transferred to other business units and applications,” added Stefano Gallucci, Group CEO, SANTEX RIMAR GROUP.

 

Meanwhile, for finishing machines, Santex try to build smaller machines which use less energy, produce less waste but still achieve high production volume.

Zero contamination for jeans finishing

Jeanologia, specialists in sustainable technologies for garment finishing, presented its “Zero Discharge Production Centre” – jeans finishing plant that guarantees zero contamination.

 

With an efficient combination of different technologies of the company (laser, wet and dry Ozone G2, and eFlow nano bubbles), the use of water and chemicals could be reduced by 90% and energy consumption by 50%.

Enrique Silla, CEO, Jeanologia 

The combined solution recycles 100% of the water used, eliminating the need for water treatment and also the use of pumice stone.

 

The latest offer is the result of Jeanologia’s 20 years of research and development. CEO, Enrique Silla, described the introduction of the “Zero Discharge Production Centre” as a revolution in the textile industry.

 

“At Jeanologia we have managed to transform the way that jeans are produced, by way of technologies that reduce the use of water, chemicals, and energy, and we are now taking this transformation a step further with our ZERØ® technology, which recycles the water used and eliminates any waste."

 

He said that about 50 companies in 47 countries would be using the technology by July 2016.

 

Jeanologia expects that 80% of global production will be generated by zero discharge centers by 2020. According to the company, the denim industry currently uses around 350 million m3 of water; and Jeanologia's intelligent treatment plant will achieve water saving of 315 million m3.

 

Exports account for 90% of the Spanish company’s turnover from the sales of machines and services. Its customers came from more than 40 countries, including: the USA, Mexico, Colombia, Brazil, Germany, Italy, Tunisia, Portugal, India, China, Russia, Japan, Morocco, Bangladesh, Turkey, and Vietnam. Users of its technology include major clothing brands and retailers.

 

Mr Silla commented that China is a market with good potential, but big exporters are moving out of the country. “Now in China, it’s more for the domestic market in different small places. It’s a challenge for us, but I’m glad that China is serious about clearing up pollution.”


Benninger

 

Benninger is committed to sustainability and its machines actively save water and energy. One of its highlights at ITMA 2015 was the open width dyeing of knitwear on the original Küsters DyePad.

The newly-developed Benninger-Küsters DyePad dyeing padder.  

As introduced, the newly-developed original Benninger-Küsters DyePad dyeing padder places great emphasis on optimum accessibility and short, guided fabric runs. The nip dyeing option helps minimize dye liquor consumption and enables economical dyeing of extremely short batches.

 

The company also presented the TEMPACTA washing steamer for knitwear which was especially developed for all low tension washing processes and is mainly used for diffusion washing (fastness washing) and for the relaxation of knitwear. As a washing drum can be integrated, an intermediate rinsing process or additional intensification of washing is possible.

 

Meanwhile, with the front and back washing effect, based on the patented double drum technology, the newly redesigned TRIKOFLEX drum washing compartment guarantees a high mechanical washing efficiency. The TRIKOFLEX drum washing machine is now also available for large widths and is therefore particularly suitable for technical textile applications.

 

Brückner

 

Sustainability was the main theme for Brückner at ITMA 2015. The German manufacturer’s highlight exhibit was the new ECO-LINE stenter generation which put energy efficiency in the focus and combines different features in a unique way.

The new ECO-LINE was presented for the first time at exhibition. 

The new machine was presented for the first time at exhibition. The outstanding attributes of the new ECO-LINE concept are the air-through zone in the first half-zone and an integrated heat-recovery unit. This allows the saving of thermal energy and production increases.

 

The dryer is provided with the proven alternating and split-flow air circulating system ensuring an optimum temperature distribution. Almost any kind of woven and knitted fabric can be treated.

 

In the field of application technology, the newly developed ECO-COAT minimum application unit presented to visitors how minimum impregnation applications can be achieved. Functionalization chemicals are applied with a liquor reservoir of only approx. 2.5 l for each m of working width. The reservoir can be used almost completely and no chemicals are wasted or disposed of.

 

Due to the little application quantity, the following processes such as drying or curing have to evaporate only a low quantity of water which has clearly positive effects on the energy consumption of the respective dryer.

 

Monforts

 

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG showed advanced innovations and solutions in line with its continuing theme of thinking ahead for sustainability, including exhaust air cleaning and heat recovery with automatic cleaning.

The Montex 8500 stenter on stage was equipped with Eco Booster.  

The Monforts Eco Booster HRC is designed to minimize energy costs during drying and heat setting processes on stenters. By contrast with purely static heat exchanger modules, it actually cleans itself during operation, eliminating standstill times for maintenance.

 

The Eco Booster runs fully automatically and permits a computer-controlled adaptation of the heat exchanger performance to the prevailing waste air stream. This optimized efficiency further reduces the process costs.

 

The Eco-Applicator liquor application process offers significant energy savings with reduced drying capacity required for a wide range of applications. A new version for knitted fabrics was introduced at the exhibition in Milan.

 

In addition, new smartphone features were introduced for Montex 8500 stenters. The new model also features a redesigned operator’s platform with ergonomic advantages during finishing and coating processes.


Besides, leading Pakistani, Indonesian, Indian and Bangladeshi customers attended a pre-ITMA open day tour of Monforts Advanced Technical Center at the company’s headquarters in Moenchengladbach, Germany.

 

The customers were able to witness live-trials which included dyeing dark shades with the Econtrol process; finishing of knitted fabrics with Eco Applicator; and coating processes for technical textiles such as membrane fabrics.

 

Santex

 

At ITMA 2015, SANTEX RIMAR GROUP presented the new innovations for textile finishing, technical textile and greentech.

SANTEX RIMAR GROUP's stand at ITMA 2015. 

The latest version of SANTASYNPACT was presented with special designed felt belt features to ensure the sensitive treatment of cotton or cotton blended knits. SANTASYNPACT is the latest addition to the Santex family of knits finishing machines, providing best fabric quality with minimum production costs. It is a combination of rubber belt shrinkage and felt belt compacting.

 

The new DECOFAST 3.5 from Sperotto Rimar is a decatising machine with new features. According to Santex, DECOFAST 3.5 redefines the decatising process, applying it to other fibers, with new controls and innovative solutions to get better results and increase hand and performance for wool, viscose and knitted fabrics.

 

For technical textile, Cavitec showed the new CAVIMELT P+P (Plug+Play) which integrates the unwinder and rewinder in one compact machine frame.

 

The streamlined machine was developed with the goals of precision, production and cost effectiveness in Hotmelt Coating and Laminating using the rotogravure system. The Operating speed is up to 40 m/min and allows coating weights from 3 – 80gsm.

 

Thies

The new yarn dyeing machine iCone.  

Thies introduced the iMaster mini to the world for the first time at the exhibition. This is a fully-equipped variation of the successful iMaster H2O for small production runs and laboratory work. One aim is to operate the iMaster mini using the same (parameter) settings as the iMaster H2O production version.

 

The company also presented the new yarn dyeing machine iCone which is ideal for bleaching and dyeing fibres in different forms. The latest forms of flow analysis allow the piping system, the pump and the pump impellers to be optimized, reducing pressure losses and therefore lowering power consumption.

 

iCone offers the ability to dye in a traditional manner using reciprocating liquor circulation or else to opt for ultra-short liquor circulation from one side only, and a liquor ratio of 1:3.6. The machine is very practical as it can be matched to the requirements of each application.

 

Trützschler

 

All four divisions of Trützschler exhibited on a collective stand, presenting processes and machines that improve sustainability and efficiency.

The new Jumbo Cans were displayed together with T-Move.  

For SPINNING, Trützschler highlighted the new Jumbo Cans with 1,200mm diameter which hold 43% more silver than regular cans with 1,000mm diameter. This means an increase in efficiency due to less can transports. The quality is also improved by a reduction in silver piecings. Designed for the Jumbo Cans, the new can filling station T-Move was also displayed.

 

For NONWOVENS, with other innovations, Trützschler presented new developments for needling machines. A new patent-pending bearing concept for the crankshaft allows higher production speeds. The complete sealing of the bearing, which results in significantly longer maintenance intervals, is also new.

 

For MAN-MADE FIBERS, the modular cutting machine with built-in electrics can quickly be integrated into new and existing installations together with the tension stand.

 

For CARD CLOTHING, the flat selection has been expanded by two products, NOVOTOP 58 and NOVOTOP 30, for special applications.